Voie whymper

The others had arrived, so we went back to the northern end of the ridge. Croz now took the tent-pole and planted it in the highest snow. It made a poor flag, and there was no wind to float it out, yet it was seen all around. They saw it at Zermatt, at the Riffel, in the Val Tournanche. On the morrow they were undeceived. All was changed: the explorers returned sad — cast down — disheartened—confounded—gloomy.

The old traditions are true — there are spirits on the top of the Matterhorn! We returned to the southern end of the ridge to build a cairn, and then paid homage to the view. The atmosphere was perfectly still and free from all clouds or vapors. Mountains fifty—nay, a hundred—miles off looked sharp and near.

All their details — ridge and crag, snow and glacier—stood out with faultless definition. Pleasant thoughts of happy days in bygone years came up unbidden as we recognized the old, familiar forms. All were revealed — not one of the principal peaks of the Alps was hidden. I see them clearly now — the great inner circles of giants, backed by the ranges, chains and massifs.

Gothard groups, the Disgrazia and the Orteler. Toward the south we looked down to Chivasso on the plain of Piedmont, and far beyond. The Viso — one hundred miles away — seemed close upon us; the Maritime Alps — one hundred and thirty miles distant — were free from haze.

Ten thousand feet beneath us were the green fields of Zermatt, dotted with chalets, from which blue smoke rose lazily. Eight thousand feet below, on the other side, were the pastures of Breuil. There were forests black and gloomy, and meadows bright and lively; bounding waterfalls and tranquil lakes; fertile lands and savage wastes; sunny plains and frigid plateaux. There were the most rugged forms and the most graceful outlines — bold, perpendicular cliffs and gentle, undulating slopes; rocky mountains and snowy mountains, sombre and solemn or glittering and white, with walls, turrets, pinnacles, pyramids, domes, cones and spires!

There was every combination that the world can give, and every contrast that the heart could desire. We remained on the summit for one hour — One crowded hour of glorious life. It passed away too quickly, and we began to prepare for the descent. More on this topic : Edward Whymper, The Matterhorn, [podcast, in french].

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Oct 11 28 0. Oct 4 44 0. Oct 2 32 0. Sep 29 37 0. Sep 27 33 0. Sep 19 40 0. Sep 16 32 0. Sep 12 46 1. Sep 10 24 2. Aug 22 48 0. Aug 22 33 1. Aug 22 37 1. Aug 16 35 0. Aug 15 24 0. Aug 14 37 0. Aug 9 24 0. The Whymper Couloir leads to the Aiguille Verte. I've not climbed it but have had a good look, it should be OK early season in cold weather.

The GJ nomral route is I think much as it has always been - long and serious. Both get AD which is not necessarily a helpful piece on information. Doug 07 May Remember - it's relatively long, complex, and can be difficult to negotiate in bad weather or if you're very tired.

The safest hours for a daytime cross of the Whymper couloir are a before 10 AM or b after sunset. Any other daytime hour is a gamble". OwenM 07 May We traversed the mountain and descended via the Rochefort Arete a fantastic if very long day. In reply to Chris Ellyatt: Don't want to hijack the thread but I also have a question for someone out there: How long does it take to cross the couloir?

Frank4short 07 May In reply to Chris Ellyatt: For those of you GJ questions, if you aren't given the answers you need in a bit.